COFFEE

Coffee production has been, like every facet of life in the DRC, subject to the forces of decades of civil conflict. Lacking both infrastructure (roads, vehicles, clean water, reliable electricity) and security for private investments, most production has reverted from larger-scale, capital-intensive plantations–which were prevalent during the colonial period–to small-holder farms of 100 trees or fewer. These smallholder farmers have sustained the industry along the eastern edge of the country, which has all the resources necessary to produce great coffee: high elevation, good rainfall, and an excellent varietal. Largely because of punative export taxes on agricultural exports, until recently a significant amount of Congolese coffee made its way over the porous borders to neighboring Uganda and Rwanda, where it was re-bagged and sold without the Congo name. Recent interest from the International Aid Community and the Specialty Coffee Industry has sparked a renaissance in coffee production in the DRC. Investments in washing stations and farmer training have grown exponentially in the past few years, and although there are still challenges with efficiency of export operations, growers have had some success producing high end specialty coffees that can compete well with the best offerings .from Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya. The best coffees from the Congo feature heavy body, deep berry tones, hints of mandarin orange and stone fruit, and subtle hints of Christmas spice.

The coffee plant is an evergreen shrub, classified under the genus Coffea, and part of the botanical family Rubiaceae. There are several species of Coffea, the finest quality being Arabica, which today represents 59% of the world’s coffee production. Arabica originated in the highlands of Ethiopia. It is sensitive to hot and humid conditions, and grows at altitudes of 1.25-1.55 miles. Arabica grown at higher altitudes is associated with the emergence of higher quality characteristics during roasting.

Since Coffee grows in tropical and equatorial regions where it is always spring or summer, it’s not a change of climate, but rather the beginning of the rainy season that triggers Arabica plants to flower, fragrant and white. Eight or nine months after flowering comes the fruit: deep red, shiny and plump like cherries, each containing two Arabica seeds, or beans. With rain, the fruit flourishes, and a careful harvesting process begins. Since ripe and unripe fruit can occupy the same plant, precision harvesting is critical.

The coffee bean is actually the seed of the coffee plant, found inside a red fruit often called the cherry. Each cherry contains two seeds (beans) surrounded by a membrane called the parchment, and a layer of sweet pulp. Arabica beans are fairly flat and elongated, with a sinuous groove. Genetically Arabica is the only species with 44 chromosomes of Coffea. Chemically, Arabica’s caffeine content varies from 0.9 to 1.7% of each bean’s volume.

In the cup, a well-prepared espresso borne of exclusively high-quality Arabica is beautifully fragrant, sweet and round, with a slight and pleasant acidity, often chocolaty, with an aftertaste of caramel and just a mild hint of bitterness. The rich, creamy layer on top, or crema, should have a light reddish brown hue, unbroken and painted with tiger-like stripes.